Hurricane Straps for Roofs in Florida: 2026 Requirements and Cost

What Are Hurricane Straps and Why Do They Matter?

Hurricane straps (also called hurricane ties, wind clips, or roof-to-wall connectors) are galvanized steel or stainless steel brackets that physically connect your roof trusses or rafters to the top plate of your exterior walls. Without them, the only thing holding your roof down during high winds is gravity and the friction of nails driven at an angle (called toe-nailing).

Here is the problem with relying on toe-nails alone: hurricane-force winds create massive uplift pressure on your roof. When a 120 mph gust hits your home, the wind flowing over the roof creates a low-pressure zone above it, essentially trying to suck the roof straight up off the walls. Toe-nailed connections fail at relatively low uplift forces, often in the range of 200 to 300 pounds per connection. A properly installed hurricane strap can resist 1,000 to 2,500 pounds of uplift force per connection.

In Pinellas County, where we sit on a peninsula surrounded by Tampa Bay and the Gulf of Mexico, every home is exposed to coastal wind conditions. We are in the Wind-Borne Debris Region under the Florida Building Code, which means our design wind speeds are among the highest in the state. Whether you live in St. Petersburg, Clearwater, Largo, Dunedin, or anywhere on the barrier islands like Indian Rocks Beach, Treasure Island, or Madeira Beach, hurricane straps are not a luxury. They are a necessity.

Understanding how your roof connects to the rest of your structure is fundamental. For a broader picture, check our guide to roof wind ratings and what they mean for your home.

Types of Hurricane Straps and Clips

Not all roof-to-wall connectors are the same. The type of connector determines the level of wind protection and directly affects your insurance premium. Let us break down the main categories from weakest to strongest.

Toe-Nailing (No Straps)

This is not a strap at all, but it is the baseline that many older Pinellas County homes still have. Toe-nailing means the truss or rafter is attached to the top plate of the wall using nails driven at an angle. Homes built before the early 1990s, especially before Hurricane Andrew changed Florida building codes in 1992, typically have toe-nailed connections.

Uplift resistance: approximately 200 to 300 pounds per connection. In a strong hurricane, this is woefully inadequate. Toe-nailed roofs are the most likely to fail during severe storms and also receive the lowest wind mitigation credit on insurance.

Hurricane Clips (Single-Wrap)

Hurricane clips are stamped metal connectors that attach to one side of the truss and to the top plate of the wall. They are sometimes called single-wrap connectors because they only contact the truss on one side. Common models include the Simpson Strong-Tie H1, H2.5, and H10 series.

Uplift resistance: approximately 500 to 1,200 pounds per connection, depending on the specific model and installation. Clips are a significant improvement over toe-nailing and are acceptable under the Florida Building Code for many applications. However, they provide less holding power than full wraps.

Hurricane Straps (Double-Wrap)

Hurricane straps wrap over the top of the truss or rafter and attach to both sides, creating a continuous metal connection that encircles the structural member. This is the strongest type of roof-to-wall connector available for standard residential construction. Common models include the Simpson Strong-Tie H10A, META20, and the MiTek hurricane tie series.

Uplift resistance: approximately 1,000 to 2,500 pounds per connection. Double-wrap straps provide the maximum wind mitigation insurance credit and are the standard for new construction in Pinellas County coastal zones.

Structural Clips and Engineered Connectors

For specialized applications, including steel trusses, concrete block walls, and custom framing, engineered connectors may be required. These are designed by a structural engineer for the specific building configuration and wind loads. You will find these on commercial buildings, custom homes on the barrier islands, and any structure with unusual framing.

Florida Building Code Requirements for Roof-to-Wall Connections

The Florida Building Code (FBC) has some of the strictest requirements in the nation for roof-to-wall connections. These requirements have evolved significantly since Hurricane Andrew in 1992, and they continue to be updated with each code cycle. Here is what the current 2023 edition (8th Edition) of the Florida Building Code requires as enforced in 2026.

New Construction Requirements

All new residential construction in Florida must have engineered roof-to-wall connections that meet the design wind speed for the specific location. In Pinellas County, the basic design wind speed is 150 mph for most areas, with some barrier island locations at 160 mph or higher. This means:

• Every truss or rafter must be connected to the wall structure with an approved connector (strap or clip)
• The connector must be rated for the uplift loads calculated by the engineer of record for the specific structure
• Connectors must be installed according to the manufacturer specifications, including the correct number of nails, nail size (typically 10d x 1.5-inch or 8d x 2.5-inch depending on the connector), and nail placement
• The connection must create a continuous load path from the roof to the foundation, meaning the roof connects to the walls, the walls connect to the floor, and the floor connects to the foundation

For details on how these requirements fit into the full code framework, see our guide to the Florida Building Code roof requirements.

Existing Home Requirements (Re-Roofing)

This is where it gets nuanced. When you replace an existing roof in Florida, the building code does not always require you to upgrade the roof-to-wall connections to current standards. The general rule under the FBC is that a re-roof must meet the code that was in effect when the home was originally built, unless the work triggers a threshold that requires full code compliance.

However, there are important exceptions and practical considerations:

• If the re-roof involves removing the roof deck (plywood or OSB sheathing) and exposing the trusses, many inspectors will require upgrading the connections since the trusses are now accessible
• If the home has suffered structural damage from a storm and the repair cost exceeds 50% of the building value, the entire structure must be brought up to current code
• Many Pinellas County contractors recommend adding or upgrading hurricane straps during a re-roof even when not strictly required, because the labor cost is minimal when the roof is already open
• The insurance premium savings from upgraded connections often pay for the retrofit within 2 to 4 years

The Continuous Load Path Requirement

One of the most important concepts in the Florida Building Code is the continuous load path. This means that wind forces on the roof must be transferred all the way down through the structure to the foundation without any weak links. Hurricane straps are just one piece of this chain.

The full continuous load path includes:

1. Roof sheathing attached to trusses/rafters (proper nail pattern and spacing)
2. Trusses/rafters connected to top wall plate (hurricane straps or clips)
3. Top wall plate connected to wall studs or concrete block wall (anchor bolts or embedded straps)
4. Wall connected to floor system or slab (hold-down hardware)
5. Floor/slab connected to foundation (anchor bolts, straps, or embedded rebar)

If any one of these connections is weak, the entire system is compromised. The best hurricane straps in the world will not help if the wall they are attached to is not properly anchored to the foundation.

Retrofitting Hurricane Straps: Cost Breakdown for Pinellas County Homes

If your home was built before 2002 (when the Florida Building Code first took effect statewide), there is a good chance your roof-to-wall connections are inadequate by current standards. Retrofitting hurricane straps is one of the most cost-effective home improvements you can make in Pinellas County. Here is what it costs.

Factors That Affect Retrofit Cost

• Number of connections: A typical single-story home with a gable roof has 30 to 50 truss-to-wall connections. A hip roof may have more due to the additional hip and jack trusses.
• Accessibility: If your attic is accessible with adequate working space, installation is straightforward. If the attic space is tight (common in ranch homes with low-pitch roofs), labor costs increase.
• Wall construction: Wood-frame walls are easier to retrofit than concrete block (CBS) walls. CBS construction, which is common in Pinellas County, requires special connectors and sometimes epoxy-anchored bolts.
• Connector type: Double-wrap straps cost more than single-wrap clips, both in materials and labor.
• Existing conditions: If there are existing partial connections, duct work in the way, or other obstacles, the work takes longer.

The most cost-effective time to add hurricane straps is during a re-roof when the roof deck is exposed. If you are planning a roof replacement, ask your contractor about adding or upgrading straps as part of the project. The additional cost is typically a fraction of the standalone retrofit price.

Insurance Discounts for Hurricane Straps in Florida

This is the part that gets most Pinellas County homeowners excited, and rightfully so. Florida law (Florida Statute 627.0629) requires insurance companies to offer wind mitigation discounts to homeowners who can demonstrate that their homes have specific wind-resistant features. Hurricane straps are one of the biggest discount drivers.

How Wind Mitigation Inspections Work

To qualify for wind mitigation discounts, you need a Wind Mitigation Inspection Report (Form OIR-B1-1802). This form is completed by a licensed inspector, contractor, or engineer who physically examines your home and documents the wind-resistant features. The report is then submitted to your insurance company, which applies the appropriate discounts.

The wind mitigation form includes several sections, but the roof-to-wall connection section is where hurricane straps have the most impact. The inspector will go into your attic and physically examine the connections at multiple points around the home.

Discount Levels by Connector Type

The exact discount percentages vary by insurance company, but here are the typical ranges for Pinellas County homes:

• Toe-nails only: No discount (this is the baseline). This is the most expensive category for wind insurance.
• Single-wrap clips: 25% to 35% discount on the wind portion of your premium. This can save $500 to $2,000 per year depending on your coverage and location.
• Double-wrap straps: 35% to 45% discount on the wind portion. This is the highest discount category for roof-to-wall connections and can save $800 to $3,000 or more per year.

For a typical Pinellas County home paying $4,000 to $8,000 per year in homeowners insurance, the wind mitigation discounts from hurricane straps alone can save $1,000 to $2,500 annually. At that rate, a $3,000 retrofit pays for itself in 1 to 3 years. After that, the savings go straight into your pocket every year for as long as you own the home.

To understand more about how your roof connects to your insurance costs, read our in-depth guide on Florida roof insurance.

Other Wind Mitigation Features That Stack

Hurricane straps are just one of several features that qualify for wind mitigation discounts. The full wind mitigation inspection also evaluates:

• Roof covering type and age (FBC-compliant materials)
• Roof deck attachment (nail size and spacing)
• Roof geometry (hip roofs get a better discount than gable roofs)
• Secondary water resistance (sealed roof deck, also known as SWR)
• Opening protection (impact-rated windows, shutters, or garage doors)

Each of these features provides its own discount, and they stack together. A home with all wind mitigation features in place can see total discounts of 50% to 70% on the wind portion of the premium. In Pinellas County, where wind insurance makes up the majority of your total premium, this is substantial money.

How Hurricane Straps Are Installed

Proper installation is just as important as the connector itself. A $5 hurricane strap installed incorrectly is no better than toe-nailing. Here is what proper installation looks like.

New Construction Installation

In new construction, hurricane straps are installed as the roof trusses are set. The process is straightforward:

1. Truss is set in position on the top plate of the wall
2. Truss is temporarily braced plumb and in the correct position
3. Hurricane strap is positioned with one leg against the wall plate and the strap wrapping over the top of the truss
4. The strap is nailed to the truss and the wall plate using the manufacturer-specified nails (typically 10d x 1.5-inch Simpson Strong-Tie nails)
5. Every nail hole in the strap must be filled. Missing even one nail significantly reduces the rated capacity
6. The process is repeated at every truss-to-wall connection around the entire perimeter of the home

Retrofit Installation (Existing Homes)

Retrofitting straps on an existing home is more challenging because the work is done from inside the attic with limited space and visibility:

1. The installer enters the attic and identifies each truss-to-wall connection point
2. Existing insulation is carefully moved aside to expose the connection
3. The current connection method is assessed (toe-nails, partial clips, etc.)
4. For wood-frame walls, the strap is positioned and nailed into both the truss and the top plate
5. For CBS (concrete block) walls, the installer may need to drill into the bond beam and use epoxy-set bolts or specialized CBS connectors
6. Each connection is inspected to ensure all nail holes are filled and the strap is tight against the wood
7. Insulation is replaced and the area is cleaned up

Common Installation Mistakes to Avoid

• Missing nails: Every empty nail hole reduces the rated capacity. A strap rated for 1,500 pounds with all nails installed might only hold 800 pounds with two missing nails.
• Wrong nail type: Using standard framing nails instead of the manufacturer-specified connector nails. The nails for hurricane straps are shorter and thicker than standard nails, designed to resist shear forces without splitting the wood.
• Strap not tight against wood: If there is a gap between the strap and the truss or wall plate, the connection will deform before it engages, reducing its effective strength.
• Strap installed on wrong side: Some straps are designed for specific orientations. Installing them backward or on the wrong face of the truss reduces capacity.
• Nails driven through the strap edge: If a nail misses the truss or top plate and only penetrates the strap metal, it provides zero holding power.

Hurricane Straps and Roof Types in Pinellas County

The type of roof you have affects both the strap requirements and the installation approach. Here is how straps work with the most common Pinellas County roof types.

Gable Roofs

Gable roofs are the most common roof type in Pinellas County, especially on homes built from the 1950s through the 1990s. A gable roof has two sloping planes that meet at a ridge, with vertical triangular walls (gable ends) at each end. Gable roofs are more vulnerable to wind damage because the flat gable end walls act as a sail in high winds.

For gable roofs, hurricane straps are installed at every truss along both eave walls. Additionally, the gable end trusses require special bracing, and the connection between the gable end truss and the wall must be especially strong. The Florida Building Code requires gable end bracing for gable walls that exceed a certain height-to-width ratio.

Hip Roofs

Hip roofs slope on all four sides, with no flat gable end walls. This design is inherently more wind-resistant because there is no flat surface for the wind to push against. Hip roofs receive a better wind mitigation insurance discount because of this aerodynamic advantage.

However, hip roofs typically have more truss-to-wall connections than gable roofs of the same footprint, because of the hip and jack trusses at the corners. Each of these connections needs a hurricane strap, so the total number of connectors is higher. The good news is that the combined discount from the hip roof geometry and proper hurricane straps is the maximum insurance benefit.

Flat and Low-Slope Roofs

Flat roofs (technically low-slope roofs) are common on commercial buildings and some mid-century homes in Pinellas County, particularly in St. Petersburg and areas near the waterfront. These roofs present unique challenges for hurricane straps because the uplift forces are distributed differently than on a pitched roof.

Low-slope roofs often use different framing systems (purlins, joists, or steel beams rather than trusses), so the strap type and installation method must match the specific framing. A structural engineer should evaluate flat roof connections in high wind zones like Pinellas County.

When to Inspect or Replace Hurricane Straps

Hurricane straps are designed to last the life of the structure, but they can degrade or become compromised over time. Here is when you should have your connections inspected:

• After any hurricane or tropical storm: Even if your roof appears undamaged, the straps may have been stressed. A visual inspection from the attic can reveal stretched, bent, or pulled straps. Learn more about assessing hurricane roof damage.
• During any re-roofing project: When the roof is open, it is the perfect time to inspect and upgrade connections.
• When buying or selling a home: A wind mitigation inspection is standard practice in Pinellas County real estate transactions.
• If you notice corrosion: In coastal areas like Treasure Island, Indian Shores, or Clearwater Beach, salt air can cause galvanized straps to corrode over time. Severely corroded straps should be supplemented or replaced.
• When your insurance is up for renewal: If you have never had a wind mitigation inspection, getting one before your renewal can result in immediate premium reductions.

Regular roof inspections should include a check of visible attic connections, especially in older homes.

DIY vs. Professional Hurricane Strap Installation

We get asked this question a lot, and the honest answer is: hire a professional. While Florida law allows owner-builders to work on their own primary residence, hurricane strap installation involves several factors that make professional installation the smart choice.

Why Professional Installation is Worth It

• Correct connector selection: Different truss configurations, wall types, and wind zones require different connectors. A professional knows which connector is right for your specific situation.
• Proper nailing: The difference between a correctly installed strap and an incorrectly installed one is invisible to the untrained eye but massive in terms of performance.
• Permit and inspection: Professional installation includes pulling the permit and scheduling the inspection, which is required for the work to count on a wind mitigation report.
• Attic safety: Working in a Florida attic in the summer can be dangerous. Temperatures regularly exceed 140 degrees F, and the working conditions are cramped with exposed nails, limited lighting, and insulation that can cause skin and lung irritation.
• Insurance credit: For your wind mitigation report, the inspector needs to see that the connections were installed correctly. Improperly installed DIY straps may not qualify for the full discount.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are hurricane straps required on roofs in Florida?

Yes. All new construction and major renovations must include approved roof-to-wall connections per the Florida Building Code. For existing homes, straps are not required to be retroactively added unless the home undergoes substantial renovation that triggers full code compliance. However, the insurance savings make retrofitting highly worthwhile.

How much do hurricane straps cost to install on a roof in Florida?

Standalone retrofit projects typically range from $1,500 to $5,000 depending on home size, construction type, and accessibility. Adding straps during a re-roof project is much cheaper, usually $800 to $2,000, because the roof is already open and the trusses are accessible.

What is the difference between hurricane clips and hurricane straps?

Clips attach to one side of the truss, while straps wrap over the top and attach to both sides. Straps provide significantly higher uplift resistance (1,000 to 2,500 lbs vs. 500 to 1,200 lbs for clips) and qualify for larger insurance discounts. Both are major improvements over toe-nailed connections.

Do hurricane straps qualify for insurance discounts in Florida?

Absolutely. Florida law mandates wind mitigation credits from insurance companies. Upgrading from toe-nails to clips saves 25% to 35% on the wind portion of your premium. Upgrading to full wrap straps saves 35% to 45%. For many Pinellas County homeowners, this translates to $1,000 to $2,500 per year in savings.

Can I install hurricane straps myself in Florida?

Technically yes, under the owner-builder exemption for your primary residence. However, the work requires a permit and inspection, and improper installation can reduce your roof structural integrity rather than improve it. Professional installation ensures correct connector selection, proper nailing, and eligibility for the full insurance discount. The cost of professional installation is typically recovered within 1 to 2 years through insurance savings.

Protect Your Pinellas County Home

Hurricane straps are one of the smartest investments a Pinellas County homeowner can make. For a relatively modest cost, you get dramatically improved structural performance during storms and significant annual savings on your insurance premium. Whether you are building new, re-roofing, or retrofitting an older home in Clearwater, St. Petersburg, Largo, Seminole, or anywhere else in the county, make sure your roof-to-wall connections are up to the task.

Talk to a licensed roofing contractor about your current connections and what upgrades make sense for your home. Get a wind mitigation inspection to document what you have and start saving on insurance immediately. Your roof is the first line of defense against Florida storms. Make sure it is properly anchored.