Skylight Installation Cost and Guide: Florida Considerations (2026)

Types of Skylights: Fixed, Vented, and Tubular

Before diving into costs and code requirements, it helps to understand the three main categories of skylights available for Florida homes. Each serves a different purpose and comes with different trade-offs for our climate.

Fixed Skylights

Fixed skylights are the simplest and most common type. They are sealed permanently and do not open, which makes them the most weather-resistant option. A fixed skylight is essentially a window installed in your roof, designed solely to bring natural light into the room below.

Fixed skylights come in various shapes (rectangular, square, circular, and custom), sizes, and glazing options. For Florida homes, the glazing is critical. You need impact-rated glass that meets Florida wind code, and ideally low-E (low emissivity) glazing with a solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC) below 0.30 to minimize the amount of heat that enters along with the light.

Because they have no moving parts, fixed skylights have fewer potential failure points. There is no hinge mechanism to corrode in Florida salt air, no gasket around an operable sash to degrade, and no motor to fail. For most Pinellas County homes, fixed skylights are the most practical choice when a traditional skylight is desired.

Vented (Operable) Skylights

Vented skylights can be opened to allow airflow, providing both natural light and ventilation. They are available in manual (crank-operated) and electric (motorized, often with rain sensors) versions.

In theory, vented skylights can help with natural ventilation and moisture management by allowing hot, humid air to escape from upper-level rooms. However, in Florida, the practical benefit is limited. Our outdoor air is often more humid than our conditioned indoor air, so opening a skylight can actually introduce moisture rather than remove it. Additionally, you would only open them during the brief periods of mild weather, typically a few weeks in late fall and early spring.

Vented skylights also introduce more potential leak points because of the operable seal around the sash. In a state that receives 50 to 55 inches of rain annually and experiences intense thunderstorms, every additional seal is a potential vulnerability. If you choose a vented skylight, invest in a model with a rain sensor that automatically closes the skylight when moisture is detected.

Tubular Skylights (Solar Tubes)

Tubular skylights, commonly called solar tubes or sun tunnels, are a fundamentally different approach to bringing natural light indoors. Instead of a large opening in your roof, a solar tube uses a small dome on the roof surface (typically 10 to 14 inches in diameter) that captures sunlight and channels it through a highly reflective tube down through the attic to a diffuser lens mounted in the ceiling below.

Solar tubes are increasingly popular in Florida for several important reasons:

• Minimal heat gain: Because the tube opening is small and the reflective lining does not transmit infrared heat the way glass does, solar tubes bring light with significantly less heat gain than traditional skylights. This is a major advantage in Pinellas County where reducing cooling loads is a priority.
• Lower leak risk: The small rooftop dome with integrated flashing is far easier to waterproof than a large skylight opening. Fewer penetration points mean fewer potential leak paths.
• Easier code compliance: Solar tubes are easier to get through Florida building code inspection because the smaller opening presents less wind resistance and lower missile impact risk.
• Lower cost: Solar tubes typically cost $800 to $1,500 installed, compared to $1,500 to $3,500 for traditional skylights.

The trade-off is aesthetics and the experience. You do not get the same view of the sky or the architectural impact of a traditional skylight. Solar tubes provide diffused natural light that brightens a room but do not create the visual connection to the outdoors that many homeowners desire.

Skylight Installation Cost in Pinellas County (2026)

Skylight installation costs vary significantly based on the type, size, glazing options, and the complexity of your roof structure. Here is what Pinellas County homeowners can expect to pay in 2026:

Additional costs to budget for:

• Light shaft construction: If your attic space between the roof and ceiling is deep, you will need a light shaft (also called a light well) to channel light from the skylight to the room below. This adds $500 to $1,500 depending on depth and finishing.
• Drywall and painting: Finishing the interior of the light shaft and patching around the ceiling opening adds $200 to $500.
• Permits: Pinellas County requires building permits for skylight installations. Permit fees typically run $75 to $200.
• Upgraded flashing: In Florida, investing in a premium flashing kit with step flashing and counter flashing is essential. Most quality skylight manufacturers include flashing kits, but custom flashing for tile roofs can add $200 to $400.

Florida Wind Code Requirements: TAS 201, 202, and 203

Florida has some of the most stringent building codes in the nation for wind resistance, and skylights are no exception. Pinellas County is designated as a wind-borne debris region (WBDR) for most areas, which means skylights must meet specific impact and pressure requirements.

The Florida Building Code references three key Testing Application Standards (TAS) for fenestration products including skylights:

• TAS 201 (Impact Test): This test evaluates resistance to wind-borne debris. A large missile (a 2x4 wood board weighing about 9 pounds) is fired at the skylight at 34 miles per hour for large missile zones or 50 feet per second for small missile zones. The skylight must resist penetration. This simulates the type of debris that becomes airborne during a hurricane.
• TAS 202 (Uniform Static Air Pressure Test): After surviving the impact test, the skylight must withstand cyclic positive and negative air pressure loads that simulate sustained hurricane winds. The required pressure rating depends on the building height, exposure category, and wind speed zone.
• TAS 203 (Cyclic Pressure Test): This test applies thousands of cycles of alternating positive and negative pressure to simulate the fluctuating wind loads experienced during a prolonged hurricane. The skylight must maintain its structural integrity and water resistance throughout the test.

In practical terms, this means you cannot simply buy any skylight off the shelf and install it in a Pinellas County home. You need a skylight that is specifically rated for Florida wind-borne debris regions. Major manufacturers like VELUX, Fakro, and Sun-Tek offer Florida-approved models, but they cost more than standard skylights sold in other parts of the country.

Alternatively, you can install a standard skylight with an approved shutter or screen protection system that covers the skylight during hurricanes. However, this adds cost and the hassle of deploying shutters before every storm, which many homeowners find impractical for a roof-mounted opening.

Your contractor must verify that the skylight product has a valid Florida Product Approval number before installation. The Pinellas County building inspector will check this during the permit inspection. Installing a non-approved skylight is a code violation that can result in fines, required removal, and potential insurance issues.

Leak Prevention in Florida Rain

Leaking skylights are the number one concern Florida homeowners cite when considering a skylight installation. Pinellas County receives an average of 50 to 55 inches of rain annually, much of it in intense summer thunderstorms that can dump two to three inches in an hour. Any weakness in the skylight installation will be found by Florida rain.

The good news is that modern skylight designs and proper installation techniques have largely solved the leak problem. Here is how to ensure your skylight stays dry:

Flashing Systems

The flashing system is the most critical component for leak prevention. Proper skylight flashing includes:

• Step flashing: L-shaped metal pieces woven into the roofing material along both sides of the skylight, directing water away from the junction between the skylight frame and the roof surface.
• Head flashing (diverter): A metal piece installed above the skylight that diverts water flowing down the roof around the skylight rather than allowing it to pool at the upper edge.
• Sill flashing: The lower edge of the flashing system that directs water below the skylight onto the roof surface and down to the gutter.
• Counter flashing: A secondary layer of flashing that overlaps the step flashing to create a double barrier against water intrusion.

Most reputable skylight manufacturers sell integrated flashing kits designed for their specific skylight models. Using the manufacturer flashing kit rather than fabricating custom flashing is strongly recommended because the kits are engineered to work with the skylight frame dimensions and tested for water resistance.

Curb-Mounted vs. Deck-Mounted

Skylights are installed in two basic configurations:

• Curb-mounted: The skylight sits on a raised frame (curb) built on top of the roof deck. The curb elevates the skylight above the roof surface, providing better drainage and reducing the chance of water pooling around the base. Curb-mounted skylights are generally more leak-resistant and are recommended for Florida installations, especially on lower-slope roofs.
• Deck-mounted: The skylight sits directly on the roof deck with a built-in flange that integrates with the roofing material. While lower-profile and more aesthetically streamlined, deck-mounted skylights rely entirely on the flashing and sealant to prevent leaks.

For Pinellas County homes, curb-mounted skylights with a minimum 4-inch curb height are the safest choice. The elevated mounting creates a physical barrier against water intrusion and provides more room for robust flashing integration.

Installation Best Practices for Florida

• Install an ice and water shield membrane (self-adhering underlayment) around the entire skylight opening, extending at least 12 inches beyond the flashing on all sides
• Apply roofing sealant at all flashing joints, but do not rely on sealant alone for waterproofing. Sealant degrades in Florida sun and heat within 5 to 10 years
• Ensure the skylight is installed on a roof slope of at least 3:12 (14 degrees). Flatter slopes increase water pooling risk
• Install a cricket (diverter) above the skylight if it is more than 30 inches wide, to prevent water and debris accumulation on the uphill side
• After installation, test with a garden hose for at least 15 minutes before completing the interior finish work

Energy Impact: Heat Gain in Florida Is a Net Negative for AC

This is the section where honesty matters more than salesmanship. In Florida, skylights are generally a net negative for energy efficiency. Here is why.

A skylight is essentially a hole in your insulated roof envelope covered with glass. Even the best insulated glazing (double-pane, low-E, argon-filled) has an R-value of about R-3 to R-5. Compare that to the R-30 or higher insulation surrounding it. The skylight is a thermal weak point that allows significantly more heat transfer than the surrounding roof.

But the bigger issue in Florida is solar heat gain. Sunlight streaming through a skylight carries substantial thermal energy. The Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) measures how much of that solar energy passes through the glass. A standard clear skylight has an SHGC of 0.60 to 0.75, meaning 60 to 75 percent of the solar energy hitting the glass enters your home as heat. Even with premium solar-control glazing, the best skylights have an SHGC of 0.25 to 0.30, still allowing a quarter to a third of solar energy through.

For a 2-by-4-foot skylight (about 8 square feet) in Pinellas County with an SHGC of 0.30, on a clear summer day with peak solar radiation of about 300 BTU per square foot per hour, the skylight admits approximately:

8 sq ft x 300 BTU/sq ft/hr x 0.30 SHGC = 720 BTU per hour

Over an 8-hour sunny day, that is 5,760 BTU of additional heat your AC system must remove. At typical AC efficiency, that translates to roughly $0.50 to $0.75 per day or $60 to $90 per summer month in additional cooling costs per skylight.

This does not mean skylights are never appropriate in Florida. The natural light reduces the need for electric lighting during daytime, and the aesthetic and psychological benefits of natural light are real and valuable. But from a pure energy standpoint, skylights increase your cooling costs in our climate. Pair them with an overall energy-efficient roofing system to offset the impact.

Solar Tubes as a Florida-Friendly Alternative

For Pinellas County homeowners who want natural light without the energy penalty and leak risk of traditional skylights, solar tubes are the recommended alternative. Here is how they compare:

For most Pinellas County homes, the recommendation is clear: use solar tubes for purely functional lighting needs (bathrooms, hallways, interior rooms) and reserve traditional skylights for rooms where the aesthetic experience and sky view justify the additional cost, heat gain, and maintenance. Many homeowners find that one or two solar tubes eliminate the need for skylights entirely.

When Skylights Make Sense in Florida

Despite the challenges, there are situations where a traditional skylight is the right choice for a Pinellas County home:

• North-facing roof slopes: A skylight on a north-facing roof receives significantly less direct sun than one on a south or west-facing slope. This dramatically reduces heat gain while still providing ample natural light. If your home has a north-facing roof slope over a room that needs light, a skylight is a much better energy proposition.
• Rooms with no exterior wall options: Interior rooms, bathrooms, and hallways that cannot accommodate windows benefit enormously from skylights. The natural light improves the space in ways that artificial lighting cannot replicate.
• New construction or major renovation: During construction, you can design the roof framing to accommodate skylights properly, install the best flashing systems, and integrate the skylight with the overall energy-efficient roofing design. The cost is lower and the result is better than retrofitting a skylight into an existing roof.
• Homes with cathedral ceilings: If your room has a cathedral (vaulted) ceiling that goes directly to the roof without an attic space between, a skylight is simpler to install because there is no light shaft needed. The skylight is set directly in the roof and opens into the room.
• Aesthetic and property value goals: Well-placed skylights can add real value to a home. A skylight flooding a great room or master bathroom with natural light is a feature that appeals to buyers, especially in Florida where the connection to the outdoors is a selling point.

Warranty Considerations for Florida Skylights

Warranties on skylights involve multiple layers that homeowners often confuse. Understanding each warranty component protects your investment:

• Manufacturer product warranty: Covers defects in the skylight unit itself (glass, frame, seals, hardware). Premium manufacturers offer 10 to 20 year product warranties. VELUX, for example, offers a 10-year warranty on glass and a 20-year warranty on the skylight structure. Check whether the warranty covers both materials and labor for replacement, or materials only.
• Manufacturer flashing warranty: Some manufacturers extend their warranty to cover the flashing kit, but only when installed according to their specifications and using their branded flashing products. Using third-party or custom flashing may void this portion of the warranty.
• Installer workmanship warranty: Your contractor should provide a separate warranty on the installation quality, typically two to five years. This covers leaks and issues caused by improper installation rather than product defects.
• Roofing warranty interaction: Installing a skylight penetrates your existing roof system. If your roof is under warranty (manufacturer or installer), verify that adding a skylight will not void that warranty. Many roofing manufacturers require that penetrations be installed by certified contractors to maintain warranty coverage.

Florida-specific warranty tip: Some skylight warranties exclude or limit coverage for hurricane damage. Read the fine print carefully. If the warranty excludes "acts of God" or "extreme weather events," you may need to rely on your homeowner insurance for storm damage. Verify with your insurance agent that the skylight is covered under your windstorm policy before installation.

Skylight Maintenance in the Florida Climate

Maintaining your skylight in Pinellas County is essential for preventing leaks and maximizing the lifespan of your investment. Florida conditions including intense UV exposure, heavy rain, salt air near the coast, and occasional hurricanes all take a toll on skylight components.

Annual Maintenance Checklist

• Inspect flashing for lifted edges, rust spots, or separated joints. Florida rain and UV degrade flashing faster than in milder climates.
• Check sealant around the skylight frame. Replace any cracked, peeling, or shrinking sealant with a high-quality polyurethane or silicone product rated for UV exposure.
• Clean debris from the skylight surface and the surrounding roof area. Leaves, pine needles, and moss can trap moisture against the flashing and cause premature failure.
• Inspect the interior ceiling around the skylight and light shaft for water stains, which indicate a developing leak that needs immediate attention.
• For vented skylights, test the opening mechanism and inspect the weatherstrip seal. Replace worn weatherstripping promptly.
• Clean the glass with a non-abrasive cleaner to maintain clarity and light transmission. Mineral deposits from Florida rain can cloud the glass over time.

When to Call a Professional

Contact a roofing professional immediately if you notice:

• Active dripping or water intrusion during rain
• Condensation between double-pane glass layers (seal failure)
• Cracked or chipped glass, especially after a storm
• Visible rust on metal flashing components
• Soft or discolored wood around the skylight frame in the attic
• The skylight frame feels loose or moves when pressed

Choosing the Right Skylight for Your Pinellas County Home

If you have decided to move forward with a skylight, here is a decision framework tailored for Pinellas County homeowners:

1. Determine your primary goal. Is it purely functional lighting? Choose a solar tube. Is it aesthetic impact and a sky view? Choose a traditional skylight.
2. Choose the roof slope. Install on a north-facing slope if possible to minimize solar heat gain. Avoid south and west-facing slopes unless you invest in premium low-E glazing.
3. Select impact-rated glazing. In Pinellas County, this is code-required. Go with double-pane, argon-filled, low-E glass with an SHGC of 0.30 or lower.
4. Choose fixed over vented unless you have a specific need for ventilation. Fixed skylights are more reliable in Florida conditions.
5. Invest in curb-mounted installation with a premium flashing kit. The extra cost is insurance against leaks in Florida rain.
6. Hire a licensed, experienced Florida contractor. Skylight installation in Florida is not a project for a general handyman. You need someone familiar with Florida wind code, flashing requirements, and local permitting.
7. Get proper permits. A Pinellas County building permit ensures your installation is inspected for code compliance and protects you if issues arise later.

Frequently Asked Questions

The Bottom Line for Pinellas County Homeowners

Skylights can add beauty and natural light to your Pinellas County home, but they require careful planning in our Florida climate. The heat gain, leak potential, and stringent wind code requirements mean that skylight installation is not a casual project. It demands impact-rated products, professional installation with premium flashing systems, and an honest assessment of the energy trade-offs.

For homeowners who want natural light with the fewest downsides, solar tubes are the clear winner in Florida. For those who want the full skylight experience, a fixed, impact-rated unit on a north-facing slope with curb mounting and low-E glazing is the smartest approach. Either way, work with a licensed Florida contractor, pull permits, and invest in quality products that will stand up to our demanding roofing conditions.